VISIT TO HARMONY HALL AND SHAW PARK GARDENS

VISITS WITHIN EASY REACH OF DUNN'S RIVER FALLS AND OCHO RIOS

We made several visits from The Jewell Resort, first with driver Ricky, to Shaw Park Gardens, and then with Desmond to Harmony Halls.

Shaw Park Gardens was our first visit and it seemed like a little bit of tropical paradise, with the blooming plants and trees, and the delicious waterfall. The guide was so knowledgable and made our visit really interesting. The building was the first luxury hotel in the area, built in the 1920s, but it was too far from the beach.

Harmony Hall is a pretty wooden house, on a stone base, which has an art gallery and famous Italian restaurant on the ground floor. Saw some good ceramics and interesting art there.
Well worth a visit.

PHOTOS TAKEN IN JAMAICA, AT OCHO RIOS AND THE JEWELL, DUNN'S RIVER

Bird sculpture in the ground of The Jewell.

Brilliant piece of wood carving - bigger than life-size, at the fisherman's shack food outlet, where we had some fried parrot fish and fried bammy.

This three-piece band, play music which in Jamaica I think they call it Mento. They played old folk songs and some more recent songs, like Big Bamboo, and were performing in the the front of the grounds of The Jewell on the night of Thanksgiving, when all the Americans were at the back having a special Thanksgiving dinner under the stars.

We saw this memorial plaque when visiting the Dunn's River Falls, it was right next to the waterfall.

The complex at The Jewell was most beautiful in the early morning, just as the sun comes up

WASSI ARTS, NEAR OCHO RIOS, CERAMICS SHOWROOM AND WORKSHOP

AN EASY VISIT FROM OCHO RIOS IS TO WASSI ARTS

We were so impressed with the beautiful ceramics at this little 'factory'. It was difficult to come away without buying lots of pots, but of course we couldn't do that because of luggage weight restrictions and the small amount of space in our bags.

Several young men work there, maybe they do shifts. Each pot has a name of the potter and decorator on the base. Outside the white clay, which is accessed from Jamaica, is put in huge trays so the excess water can evaporate, in the same way as is done in the UK.

Also on display was a few paintings from the potter/artists. There is a well-stocked showroom, and you can arrange to have pieces shipped home.

THE JEWELL, DUNN'S RIVER, EVENING CABARET SHOW AND MUSIC

WHAT TO DO TO PASS TIME IN THE EVNING, AT THE JEWELL

Resident band here good, it plays every evening, four piece, till 11 o'clock. There is a pianist who plays after 11, on a different area of the resort, called the pool bar. There is also a DJ for the night owls, until 2 pm

Yesterday we had a treat as we had a man Jamaican cabaret artist doing a singing show, with old songs such as some Atlantic and rock from late 50s and 60s. And a lindy hop. He had a smart black suit and two-tone shoes and did a good lindy with one of the guest volunteers.

Most of time music on the resort is always reggae, not possible to buy any old Jamaican ska or bluebeat in the town, which is about 3 miles away and has not got a record shop, people here do not seem interested in old stuff. No surprising I guess, since I bought my music in the 1960s.

The entertainment staff, who are very friendly and well trained, do hold kind of jokey reggae dance classes by the pool during the day and seem to think that we tourists do not know how to move our hips in an appropriately Jamaican way!!!

Some of these staff, particularly the girls, dress up and look gorgeous for the dancing in the evening, dancing the band or to any guest singer. They wear tights dresses and very high heels, and have got the Jamaican hip wiggle to perfection! The men really enjoy it, and there is a lot of laughter and clapping. The several young men on the staff have a good dance routine too, verging on rap moves.

BRINGING GIFTS - NOT AWAYS A GOOD IDEA - JAMAICA TIME

They said they would be at the hotel by about 12 midday - they finally turned up at gone 2.30 and with a little boy in the car, which caused consternation here - an adults only complex. The security guard came running into the lobby, saying "They have arrived, and there is a child in the car."

This was because we promised to bring some gifts for the granddaughter of a friend in England, who lives a couple of hours drive from Dunn's River. Sunday was the day we arranged, on the phone. I bought a sim card in Jamaica and so could contact the granddaughter. We knew she would come in her boyfriend's car but did not realize she would bring her small son also.

Lots of people in the hotel seemed to know we were having a long wait, and made the joke that they were operating on 'Jamaica Time'.

Finally we all set off in the car, so as not to interrupt the tranquility of The Jewell complex with the presence of a small eight-year old boy.

We went to Scotchies for jerk chicken, which was sadly a big disappointment. It is rated in the guide books but really not worth the effort going there. Food not particularly good, dry and overcooked. Rice and peas nothing special. Chicken 'sausage' truly dreadful. Still, the Red Stripe was good, as usual.

Then went to a small beach some way away, where people were playing football, in the light of the setting sun. The sea there was full of dark brown seaweed, though, not good for paddling.

A sound system was belting out reggae and the whole beach seemed to vibrate in time to the beat.

FIREFLY, NEAR ORACABESSA, JAMAICA, HOME OF NOEL COWARD

VISIT TO THE HOUSE CALLED 'FIREFLY' BY NOEL COWARD, THE ENGLISH SONGWRITER, PLAYWRIGHT AND ACTOR


Lovely place, fantastic views over the bay. Statue of Noel Coward is placed on the hillside overlooking the sea and mountains.

We have the contact number of a nice taxi driver, called Desmond. He quoted us a price to drive from Dunn's River, Ocho Rios, to see Firefly and also to call at Harmony Hall art gallery.

It is so nice to get away from the hotel complex, although it is pleasant enough with friendly staff. However, you are in a kind of false environment with all your needs - or almost all (no newspapers, no book library, no UK TV ) catered for. However, at Firefly what struck me at first was the wonderful quiet - no piped music!

Desmond, an excellent driver, took us to Firefly, up a terrible rutted and holed track. Potholes big enough to swallow a small goat, I think!

The hillside gives stupendous views over St Marie bay, and the air is full of the scent of herbs, like wild thyme.
There is a small stone built house with gun slits which was a relic of when Henry Morgan the pirate had his base there.

Inside the house you can visit the small kitchen and dining room, the main room with two baby-grand pianos, and upstairs to the terrace and bedroom, where Noel Coward died. The views from the house are stupendous.

The complex is now used for weddings, apparently, especially the pirate's house!

THE JEWELL, OCHO RIOS, BEACH PARTY TEAM

BEACH PARTY IN THE EVENING, UNDER THE TREES AND PALMS ON THE BEACH, AND DANCE SHOW

The entertainment team at The Jewell does a fine job. Several young women and men run events, its a bit like being in an upmarket Butlins holiday camp, though I have never been to a holiday camp in England. The family used to watch a TV comedy program called Hi Di Hi! about the imaginary holiday camp in the UK. Hands up if you remember this!

Here the The Jewell the visitors are not encouraged to go off the site, so things have to be devised to entertain them. During the day there is sometimes a quiz show with a prize of a bottle of rum, held by the side of the largest swimming pool, (passing by, I realize the questions are outside my experience, since I am ancient and English - all about US sports and pop stars, it seems).

Sometimes there are beach volley ball games, which include people of quite a lot of shapes and sizes; I have done photos of these, and made a few sketches, and plan a painting when I get back to UK.

One evening a week there is a Beach Party. This starts at 6 pm - it is almost dark here by 5 pm - and food is arrange on side tables displaying salads, hot meat, hot fish, cold cuts, cakes, and also a collection of coconuts and sugar cane.

Large round dining tables and chairs, seating about eight people each, are on the beach with tiny little lights, so you cannot see what you are eating. (Though I am sure this is not intentional).

The entertainment this week, was a kind of coaching session by the young team for a few guinea pig guests, at how to dance a rather restrained reggae.

Then a professional troup of dancers performed, very well. Five girls in colonial era costume did a folk dance. The men were very energetically dancing, jumping, summersaults. Finally there was a display of limbo dancing, pole dancing, and fire eating.

Congrats to the team, Jason, Antonia and the others.

DUNN'S RIVER FALLS, OCHO RIOS TRIP WITH TAXI DRIVER DESMOND

DUNN'S RIVER FALLS, NEAR THE JEWELL, POPULAR WITH CRUISE SHIP PASSENGERS AND OTHER TOURISTS

We got the phone number of Desmond from a friend here. We did not want to take the organised tour which is expensive, about 90 dollars each. We noticed the entry to the Dunn's River Falls is very near this hotel, but too far to walk. There is a big car park. My guide book suggested going there early in the morning, or late in the evening. The Falls opens at 8.30

My plan worked. Desmond turned up as agreed at 8.30 and as the Falls is not far away, we were the firt in the car park, and walked to the main buildings where you can change to swimsuit if you want. Entry fee reduced for older people, so only $20.

It was nice to have the place free from anybody except the staff - there are numbers of guides in blue tee shirts. We climbed down to a viewing platform where you can see the course of the river down the falls, the force of water is stupendous.

I think the rounded rocks are limestone. The sound thunders in the ears, and huge trees shade over the white water.

A nice middle aged lady came over, and told me that she did not recommend me to climb the falls, saying it was slippery and dangerous. I was quite happy to take her advice because actually the route you have to take, to climb up from the beach looked quite scarey and probably requires a lot of arm strength to pull yourself up via the hand-holds set into the rock at the sides.

I stepped into the water from the platform, to see how cold it was. The force of water then quickly washed away one of my new Jelly shoes, so I discarded the other one - hard luck! Lots of other shoes lined up the bank, lost by other people

We walked all down the side of the falls, on the wooden walkway (they call it a boardwalk) where it is also made in concrete in places. There are plenty of places to stop and admire and wonder, and take photos.

The beach at the bottom of falls is well-served with toilets, changing cubicals and places you can hire towels. The sea there was bright blue and very inviting, calm and safe-looking.
The atmosphere was calm and relaxed, we had no hassle.

Then we climbed up again on the walk-way and steps to the exit where we expected to be harrassed by traiders, but actually nobody addressed us at all, it was absolutely no problem as they day out here. And we met up with Desmond about an hour after first arriving.

OCHO RIOS SHOPPING TRIP, COST, AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The hotel is known as The Jewell, locally, or 'the new one'. Actually it had been a holiday building here for many years, since the 1950s, and was a casino at first, so I was told by Leabert, the garden guide. It has just been refurbished throughout recently. Its last incarnation was as Sandals, Dunn's River.

Staff here excellent, very well trained, and obviously chosen for their friendly personalities, attractive appearance and ability to remember people's names! They have one day off a week, I believe, and work really hard. After being there some time, they have 2 weeks holiday.

Went to Ocho Rios on a 'Shopping Tour', this cost 20$ for two- cheaper than the taxi fare which is quoted as $30 - it is only about 3 miles away. The Tour vehicel was a small bus, and we were told to come back to the same spot two hours later, in the Craft mall, full of Bob Marley sourvenirs.

I wanted to buy a sim card for phone, so we walked to the Digicel shop, where the credit card machine was out of order. We also had to provide proof of identity which could have been a problem, as we did not know about this prior to our visit. Lucily I had a photocopy of my passport. We managed to pay with the few US dollars we had (we had not planned to buy anything much). You pay for minutes of calls with this service, not by the cost.

Afterwards stopped at very nice coffee shop in another mall, and got information about a driver who could take us to Wassi Arts the next day.

Met a couple of Yanks who invited us to have a drink with them the next day, at their hotel which is the neighbour of ours at Dunn's River, called Rui I think. (Its so big it looks like a small town)

GUESTS AT THE JEWELL, OCHO RIOS - MIXED BUNCH

THE JEWELL RESORT, DUNN'S RIVER, JAMAICA

The resort is fairly full now, beginning December 2010.

Last night the staff were putting Christmas lights in the large sea grape trees outside, and there is a Christmas tree in the lobby, near where I am typing this, covered in silver cupids (or angels) and glitter.

The guests are mainly American. The majority seem young couples, I think we must be the oldest, and being from UK, are more or less the only Limeys here. The American voice can be very loud and somewhat grating on the ear, but I am presuming that this is because the various states have different ways of expressing themselves. Not everybody is like that, of course.

A lot of Americans come from Florida, which is only about an hour away.

Another big group are from Canada.
We have spoken to from people living in the States who originated from Russia and speak Russian to eachother.

Also there are a lot of Jamaican guests here, particularly at the weekend. I think they can get day passes, and maybe they have a cheaper rate being residents - not sure about this. But some are obviously staying here over night. Last weekend there was a large group of young women staying.

I asked a few of the staff here if they get prejudice from the guests because they are black Jamaican, and was told that some of the black American guests are a bit rude and unpleasant, as was one couple of Russians. Of course this is just the experience of one or two of the staff, so maybe this is uncommon, I hope so - the staff here are without exception polite and charming.

And amazingly they remember names!

The group we met most were the Entertainment team, thank you, Jason, Sasha, Antonia and all the other boys and girls!

MONTEGO BAY AIRPORT, JAMAICA, AND JOLLY BUS RIDE TO OCHO RIOS

Arrived Montego Bay in sunny weather, bright blue sky, what a change from dark November in the UK.

We had to get a porter for our baggage to go a few yards from the area where you have to leave the airport trolley, to the bus arrival area, and that cost $5. A bit over the top!

Long ride from MoBay to Ocho Rios, seemed to go on for ever, I guess it was under two hours but seemed longer. Driver gave a running comentary on the size of the huge hotel complexes along the way. We stopped off for beer and restroom (toilet)use. My first Red Stripe of the holiday!

Driver was cheerful, but none of the passengers were anything more than anxious to get to their destinations.

Luckily the hotel complex we are staying at was efficient and there was no delay on showing us to the room on first floor. Nice, large room with four poster bed, balcony (without a view, unless you crained your neck to a tiny glimpse of sea), New bathroom suite and plenty of space everywhere.

Too late to eat - by the time we had had a shower and changed clothes, in any restaurant, but had jerk chicken at the grill place in the grounds, where it was too dark to see much, despite a minute candle on the table.

GATWICK AIRPORT AND COPTHORNE HOTEL - PROBLEM!

Set off for our holiday, and spent night before flight at Copthorne Hotel, which is a taxi-ride from the airport. Taxi cost £8.50.
The staff promised to wake us at 6.15 and said they had never missed a wake up call! Needless to say, they missed ours, despite us reminding them the last thing at night. Luckily I woke at ten minutes to 7 and we had a rush to get to airport. They had messed up on ordering taxi too. Told us it had already been and gone without us!

Another problem was the weight limitation on Thomson flights. Carry-on is limited to 5 Kg and hold bags to 20 Kg. So the carry-on cases had to be weighed by me several times, at home and later at Gatwick, as by that time I was manic about having to discard stuff at the departure point.

Of course, nobody weighed anything at Gatwick so we need not have bothered and could have packed an extra book to read!

Flight was truly dreadful. Thomson was the one we booked because seat pitch is 31" but Thomson rep at Gatwick said they had to transfer flight to a Thomas Cook 767 airplane because of a technical fault.

The Thomas Cook planes are very cramped. I asked a flight attendant what is the seat pitch? He guessed 28" or 29", and the aisle between seats was so narrow you had to walk sideways. The attendants were good, pleasant and helpful but food was really the worst of air travel food, no choice, overcooked and tasteless chicken, cold fried potatoes and peas. Also you could not see the tiny TV screens up on the ceiling from where I sat. Not that I really wanted to see a film, but some people did. A very long ten hours, but I am glad to say the plane left and arrived on time, with no further hitches.

We then found where we had to get on the mini-bus supplied by Jamaica Tours to ferry passengers to hotels in Ocho Rios area.

MARRAKESH, RIAD KNISAS, DERB HOTEL BAB DOUKALA

Set off from Gatwick airport using Ryanair (or was it Easyjet, can't remember). No problem with small cases or - that nuisance - the plastic bag for liquids, but what did happen? My contact lens lotion emptied itself all over the contents of case so couldn't use contact lenses during whole of stay. No shops in the Medina that sold such a thing as contact lens lotion.
Had a long wait to board then was sitting in plane for nearly 45 minutes.
Crowded plane, uncomfortable seats and sqashed at armrest.
OK at Marrakesh though, met by Ben and a driver, and short ride in nice new air con car to Riad Kniza.
Riad Kniza is in tiny alley near souk selling food - near Bab Doukalla, three carved gateways in the ochre city wall. Outside the wall is mayhem of city traffic, inside in mayhem of pedestrians and little motorbikes.
We have duplex accommodation, dark rooms, carpets, huge bed, nice cushions on floor, carved antique furniture. Very helpful people.
Snack lunch at about 3.30 which was tea, fried 'finger' food and little rolls (pastilles) stuffed with chicken and salad.
There is a plunge pool, tiny and very blue and open to the blue sky, with two blue pots at one end, where stand large palm trees.
Red rose petals on the bed, in the wash basin, on the table, on towels and in another room a bowl of peaches, grapes and apples.

NOT SO NICE THINGS ABOUT MARRKECH IN MOROCCO

Dirty taxis, 'rip off' and surly taxi drivers.
Chaotic roads so you risk life and limb crossing road.
Overpowering heat of direct sun (July).
Rather too much sugar and too much fried food.
No 'western' bread except in French restaurants.
Not many vegetables (low fibre diet!).
Chickens, rabbits, chicks, in tiny hutches in the markets.
Flies on cakes, breads, pastries on the stalls.
Lack of any good quality shops in the New Town - or we couldn't find them if they are there.

NICE THINGS ABOUT MARRAKECH IN MOROCCO

We visited in July, during the hottest freak weather, up to 45 degrees.
Nice things:
Cool shady bits, colours, carved wooden doors.
Lovely potted palms(in blue pots).
Friendly people who say 'bon soir', 'bon jour'.
Pretty children.
All the staff at the Riad Kniza, and most of the waiting staff at restaurants.
Shops at the airport
Orange juice, cold wine, expat lifestyle.
Food:
Little fried savory snacks and salted almonds in their skins.
Lamb tagine, fish, peaches.

TWENTY NINE - The Horrors of Flight

The last night in Goa, we decided to go to the Alpha club again, to see if the music was any better, and also to look at the jewellery stall, where the rings and bracelets were better than usual tourist tat. No much joy there, as the stalls were not booked in because of the heavy rain.
The young rock musicians were doing a version of the Stones, which seemed a bit dated.

It was another wet night, torrential rain and hug claps of thunder, which had the effect of stopping the local dogs doing their own musical rendition, one dog taking the lead vocal, and others doing the woo woo woo backing group, plus a little bass.
Up at 3.30 am and taxi finally turned up at 4.15, so made it to airport by 5.30 - tedious waiting in long queues, to no obvious point.
Will not go into the details of the dreadful return flight via Sri Lankan airlines, because that was so bad. Although I had asked for seats right at the back of the aircraft, we were put on row 3, up front with a large collection of families and small children/babies, who howled in turn for the whole 11 and a half hours.
Needless to day, arrived at 7.30 pm Heathrow in a state of extreme tension!!!! The weather so cold, difficult to describe the shock to the body, from 39 degrees to about 5.
It was a great and delightful surprise that R and L turned up with their car to meet us at Heathrow.
Next...... now where shall we go to next? Somewhere a b it nearer, perhaps.

TWENTY EIGHT - SUNDAY AND OFF

Today is the last day here. It is still cloudy this morning and I am hoping for a bit of sun later but sky does not look good. Probably more rain on the way.
Had a swim in the lovely sea, which today is very calm, and much colder
Might go into local little town, Choudi, for a meal because the food there is Goan, and not geared up to tourist taste. Choudi is the only place where there is an ATM, and is where I bought my mobile phone. The phones are essential here., Everybody has one, every man, woman or dog. The call rates are very cheap, only 6.99 rupees a minute.
At the Udipi hotel in Choudi you can have a delicious breakfast of Masala dosa, and lassi, but it is too far away to go there except by rickshaw.
The food has been allmost without exception, really good. Fish and rice most days. I decided not to eat chicken or meat while here. There is a surprising lack of vegetables, unless you order a mixed veg dish, when they appear as if from a pack of frozen mixed veg, in a spicey sauce. Aloo gobi is usually delicious, and I noticed piles of cauliflowers in the Chaudi market, and potatoes, so these are local.
Twice I lashed out, and had king prawns - you see them before they are cooked. A memorable flavour. But quite expensive, about £10 sterling.
Fruit also delicious but not easy to buy cheap, unless you go for the tiny bananas. They are 1 rupee each,tourist rate.
This may be my last post,but I will be adding photos. Just nearly lost this text, as there was another power cut.

TWENTY SEVEN - People-

Like most holidays I have been on, I do not meet the local people much, but do talk to the waiters, hotel staff, taxi drivers, shopkeepers. Most people here do not have much vocabulary, just basic English.
Some do not understand much at all, and the women seem less able to talk than the men. The children and young boys are more forthcoming
There are a lot of Israeli people here too. Israeli food on the menus.
Some people who work here are,of course, better educated and have good English so it is nice to have questions answered. I still do not know why some palm trees have shoes tied round them. Asked twice, and it seems to be either to keep bad spirits off, or to ensure the tree has a good crop of nuts.
Met a rich young man from Bombay called Ravi when in Candolim, he was with his uncle, who he worked for. They are into real estate. He was staying in a posh hotel and I met him at the Internet cafe. They are developing a building, with the aid of a ultra modern architect, from Argentine, who I also met. Good company.
The other Bombay person I met was the artist, who was at the Guest House, which I wrote about previously. Apart from that, it has not been possible to talk much about Goa, or India, or the world in general. I guess if I had been in Bombay it would be a different story.
There are Indian holiday makers here, groups of men, or families, but they tend to keep themselves to themselves.
A lot of the workers in the tourist trade are from other parts of India, in particular from Kashmir. I got the impression that the Goan people resent all the Kashmiris taking their jobs, but when the season is in full swing, there is probably enough jobs to go round.

TWENTY SIX RAIN GO AWAY!

Well I believed the talk about no rain in March, but I have not been lucky.
Friday night, it poured down while it was too wet to walk out for a meal, so people sat in the nearest bar or, in our case, the Guest JHouse eating hut, which dripped a bit.
Yesterday Saturday, we went to Agonda beach up the coast about 7 miles, it is very wild there, with a few cafes, some huts to rent, and a couple of shacks on the edge of the sand. No palm trees, but a beautiful horseshoe bay, but the waves quite big so I did not swim for long.
Lucily, as it started to rain again at 2 pm Nasesh arrived with his rickshaw and by the time we were back in Outrem (end of Palolem beach) rain was heavy. It then poured, in tropical frenzy, for most of the afternoon and evening, so not much fun to be had on the beach for anybody!
Late afternoon it was stopped enough for a walk to the main drag, where all the hippy shops are, and cafes selling probiotic yogurt, meuslei, wholemeal bread, tattoos, kaftans and othr nicknacks. Not my kind of place, really.